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Dallas Wine Education Center

Bi-weekly Wine News (June 9, 2014)

By Dilek Caner MW Leave a Comment

Wine Picks

Kim Marcus at Wine Spectator covers “Symington Family Douro Altano 2011.“

Julia Harding MW of jancisrobinson.com picks “Pontemagno Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2013.“

Gil Lempert Schwarz of Las Vegas Review-Journal writes about “Chateau du Pin Bordeaux 2009.“

Wes Marshall of The Austin Chronicle covers wines from two California producers: “Talbott” and “Bonny Doon.”

Wine & Spirits Magazine lists “The Best for $10 or Less.”

General News

Marc Bona of Cleveland Plain Dealer “Marc Bona of Cleveland Plain Dealer –  “All about Zinfandel: We tap Joel Peterson – ‘Godfather of Zin’ – for his perspective on the grape.” Read to find lesser-known wines based on the red grape varieties that you like.

Jancis Robinson explains in Financial Times –  “How to Keep Wine.”  A useful read if you find yourself wondering how long and where to age particular wines.

Jon Bonné reports in SF Gate – “Napa wine auction raises more than $18 million.” 

Wine List Review: Spoon Bar & Kitchen

By Dilek Caner MW Leave a Comment

oysters-kevin-marple

Photo credit: www.spoonbarandkitchen.com

For our meal at John Tesar’s Spoon, we went as a group of four so that we could try as many different dishes as we can as a group and order more than one bottle of wine.

Wine

Every Sunday, Spoon sommelier Madeleine Thompson offers about 10-12 wines by the bottle at half price. “Those are the wines I would like people to try,” says Thompson, who picks several lesser-known varieties and regions for her list. If you’d like to drink like an insider, leave yourself to her able hands and she’ll pick something tasty in your price range. Or browse the half-price list and try something new at a price you won’t regret. On the Sunday we were there, the list featured a 2009 Talenti Rosso di Montalcino at $40, a price very close to what it would cost at a wine store, hence an almost a BYOB deal.

For our meal we picked two wines from the main list: A Cava by Mercat and a 2003 Dirler Riesling from the Alsace Grand Cru Kessler both of which were excellent accompaniments to Spoon’s cuisine. We were especially happy to have found an older Riesling from an excellent producer at the very fair price of $95.

Spoon’s list is especially strong in the sparkling and white wine categories. It is refreshing to see that, instead of the most obvious names the list includes some of the tastiest but more subtle wines such as 2006 Chartogne-Taillet Brut ($200), 2007 Vilmart Grand Cellier ($250) and 2005 Annamaria Clementi Brut Rosé by Ca’ del Bosco ($275). If you feel like a glass of crisp, fresh sparkling rose and don’t mind a bit of an adventure, try the Hugo Sparkling Rosé made from the Zweigelt grape in Austria.

White wines varietiesAmong the whites there are many delicious avenues you can take. If you want freshness with a tad bit of a fullness in your wine go with Weingut Knoll’s 2005 Loibner Vineyard Federspiel Grüner Veltliner ($75) from Wachau and if you like unoaked, fresh, crisp, cool-climate Chardonnay, try 2012 “Terroir Découverte” Chablis by Patrick Piuze ($54). Both of these wines are perfect accompaniments to almost anything on Spoon’s menu.  Increasing your wine budget to a higher level can get  you a bottle of 2011 Francois Mikulski Meursault ($140) which is a classic with typical Meursault characteristics including nuttiness, slightly oxidative yellow apples and a clean limestone minerality.

Your white options do not end here. 2012 Valle Dell’Acate “Zagra” 2012 Grillo ($45) from Sicily and 2012 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet ($50) from Languedoc provide opportunities to taste something out of the ordinary without breaking the bank.  If cost is not an issue and you are celebrating, order the 2002 Ruinart “Dom Ruinart” Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($350), one of the most elegant and precise blanc de blancs from a great vintage in Champagne.

Spoon’s list has a surprisingly large selection on rosés and I would order each and every one of them on different occasions, though one of them particularly catches the eye: 2012 Arnot-Roberts Touriga Nacional “Rosé” ($65) from California. This one is made from Port’s flagship grape Touriga Nacional by a very reputable producer. I can’t wait to taste this the next time I am there.

If you must have a red and nothing but a red, an impressive section on Pinot Noir follows. Among the red Burgundies, I have my eye on 2008 Domaine Michel Lafarge “Les Caillerets” 1er Cru Volnay ($200). Granted, 2008 is not a stellar vintage in Burgundy overall. It is a vintage that separated the wheat from the chaffe and Lafarge is definitely the wheat and a legendary one at that. If you were looking at an acclaimed Burgundy vintage such as 2005 or 2010 you could never buy it at this price on a wine list, even from a slightly lesser producer. Besides, 2008 red Burgundies are drinking quite well right now.

There are some interesting Oregon and California Pinot Noir selections as well, but if you are into the big reds such as Bordeaux or California Cabernet Sauvignons, you are on your own here. I love those too but I would not go for these here with a mainly seafood menu, especially when there are such enticing alternatives on the wine list.

Overall, we were very happy with Spoon’s wine list.

Food

scallop-crudo-kevin-marple

Photo credit: www.spoonbarandkitchen.com

We ordered all the crudos in the menu and for me, they were the most delicious part of the menu. Cuttlefish and the Pacific Uni were both outstanding and there was not one crudo dish that didn’t make the grade. It is quite amazing that they can offer such freshness in crudos and perhaps the reason for the high prices of these items. Actually, that would be my only issue in going for a repeat; I would love to go back and do the same once in a while but at $18-$19 per crudo, it can only be an occasional treat.

For the main dishes, the Arctic Char and the Swordfish were both right on the money, and the Skate was cooked to perfection but we had one reservation about the tomato compote on it. The brown butter, lemon and capers completed the Skate, however, the tomato compote tasted slightly metallic as if it was made from canned or preserved tomatoes.

The desserts were exceptional and so was the Milk Chocolate Mousse with Salted Caramel Foam we were offered as palate cleanser between the main course and dessert. The chocolate and caramel had just the right amount of sweetness and a true chocolate taste without being overly rich and the  It took all my self-control to not go for another round that included all the desserts that were featured that night. The desserts were so palatable that a real dessert-lover could go through the whole list without feeling heavy in the end. Kudos to pastry chef David Collier.

Texas Roussanne

By Dilek Caner MW 2 Comments

Roussanne_B__grappe_

Courtesy of “PlantGrape, le catalogue des vignes cultivées en France, © UMT Géno-Vigne®, INRA – IFV – Montpellier SupAgro” http://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/

Friend and colleague Andy Chalk organized a tasting of 12 Texas Roussannes this weekend and I was one of the lucky attendees. So far, I had only tasted Texas Roussannes here and there when I went out to dinner in Dallas restaurants but I do remember thinking a couple of times whether Roussanne could actually be the grape variety for Texas.

At today’s tasting there was great variability, both among the styles and the quality levels. A few wines showed way too low levels of acidity turning them into super-round, weighty blobs on the palate,  and two of them had disturbingly high phenolic bitterness in the finish. On the other hand, there were some that were fresh and enticing, perfect accompaniment for fuller flavored seafood dishes. You could easily replace a mediocre New World Chardonnay with a decent Texas Roussanne and be the happier for it.

Below is what I liked.

2012 Arche, Vintner’s Reserve Oswald Vineyard, THP: Its most attractive aspect is the fresh, although not particularly high acidity combined with its ripe fruit. It has a slight oxidative character with dried apricots, dried hay, white tea leaves, apple cider and jackfruit. The presence of fruit is very well balanced with the complexity added by its oxidative notes; a waxy texture and a persistent minerality in the finish render it all the more interesting. (90 points)

2012 McPherson Cellars, Texas: A true to type Roussanne, with everything that is expected from this grape variety: nectarine, honeysuckle, orange blossoms, herbal tea and almond notes, a granite-like minerality in the finish and the signature waxy texture of Roussanne. This one wins the palates by its freshness of fruit and medium plus acidity. I would serve this as a benchmark Texas Roussanne for an out-of-state guest. (88 points)

2012 Barking Rocks, Oswald Vineyard, THP: If you have some seared scallops to pair, this is your wine. Cider, hazelnut, dried apricots, and honey notes on the slightly oxidative (in a good way) nose. The acidity is medium plus adding some freshness that is certainly something to be appreciated in a Roussanne. (88 points)

You can find a detailed discussion of the tasting and all the wines that were included at Andy Chalk’s CraveDFW article.

 

Bi-weekly Wine News

By Dilek Caner MW

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Wine Picks

Rebecca Murphy of Dallas Morning News picks “Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy, Sancerre 2012.”

Gil Lempert Schwarz of Las Vegas Review-Journal picks “Les Hauts de Janeil Syrah-Grenache.”

 

General News

Cathy Huyghe on mountain fruit in Napa in Forbes – “Why Wine Collectors Love Mountain Grown Fruit: Napa’s Chris Carpenter Explains.” Read to learn about how mountain grown wines are different in structure and why they are generally more expensive.

Jancis Robinson reports on a bunch of ageable Beaujolais in Financial Times – “Aged Beaujolais.”

Lettie Teague in WSJ – “The Pursuit of Pinot Grigio with Personality.” Covers some of the leading Pinot Grigios from the better regions.

Jon Bonné in SF Gate – “Found in a gorge, a promising paradise for wine.” A detailed coverage of Columbia Gorge, the small appellation shared between Washington and Oregon. Remember to go to the end of the article to see his concise reviews of the Columbia Gorge wines he’s tasted.

Marc Bona of Cleveland Plain Dealer “All about Zinfandel: We tap Joel Peterson – ‘Godfather of Zin’ – for his perspective on the grape.”

Tom Riley of San Jose Mercurey News covers “Jordan Vineyard & Winery.”

 

Collectors’ News

Guy Collins of Bloomberg – “Romanee-Conti 2009 Fetches $155,350 at Hart Chicago Sale.” OK, it is a case of DRC not a single bottle though.

Guy Collins of Bloomberg – “La Tache Leads Christie’s New York Sale With Lafite ’59.” This one was a mixed case of ’78 La Tache and ’59 Lafite. See the article on pricing of a 45-bottle lot of Vega Sicilia Unico, a six-bottle lot of ’85 Jayer Echezeaux and others.

Guy Collins of Bloomberg – “Petrus 2010 Drops to Low of $36,700 as Bordeaux Shunned.” Could Bordeaux really be out?

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